7 Νοε 2008

The New Acropolis Museum

I quite like the New Acropolis Museum. But then again, I like all airports…

I love their masses of space, long corridors, lifts and escalators, passenger conveyors, and of course I'm just crazy about baggage carousels!

Athens has recently acquired a great number of amazing new airports, disguised into … metro stations.
For reasons that truly escape me, metro stations in Athens, especially those built after 2004, have grown out of proportion, showing off, one after the other, long passageways dressed in marble, monumental façades, and truly imperial grandeur.

From the pharaonic forecourts and atriums of the station at Gazi (below left and centre), to the impressive basilica housing – quite fittingly I hasten to add – the station of St. Dimitrios (below right), the visitor is treated to an extravaganza of voluminous masses and an impressive play of light and shadow effected through heaps of matter and clutter. An ostentatious display of skills and thrills, imposing, impressive and impossibly grand.


The only problem is, once the ride is over, you are let out to … same old Athens with its chaotic state of things.

Quite frankly, compared to some of our metro stations the New Acropolis Museum (above centre) looks quite Spartan. For one, it does not have any baggage carousels, nor a passenger conveyor (though it could certainly use one). Marble is rather scarce, reserved mostly for floors, leaving walls and columns – those ghastly, elephantine columns dwarfing exhibits and visitors by their sheer mass – in the shade and texture of crude cement, which was all the rage once, I’m guessing, but hasn’t been very popular recently, not since buildings like those of the South Bank Complex in London have grown pitifully old and outdated. Go to Halandri or Plakentias station, for example (below right), and you will see the same gross pillars – only there they are dressed in metal, as if to achieve a cosy embellishment of sorts:



As a matter of fact, I wish our New Acropolis Museum looked just like an old cement bunker in the heart of Athens – it would be simpler than this odd conglomerate made of cement, shiny perforated metal and glass, that has crashed in the middle of an unsuspecting neighbourhood, threatening to take it all in its stride. Bernard Tschumi’s chunk of a masterpiece claims its space with vehemence, and a sprinkling of odd ideas of “visual dialogues” and exceptionalist self assurance. As it stands, it looks as if the antiquities are kept in somebody's abandoned tin-can manufacturing plant (or an airport posing as a metro station, remember?).



So what is the problem? Is it merely a question of scale and good-old Greek sense of proportion? Or is it the arrogance of an international star system – as some have been complaining long time ago now – oblivious to the needs of the site it has come to conquer? Why has Mr Tschumi abandoned the principles of his early work? How has he come up with his ludicrously essentialist position that the Acropolis Museum is like no other on this earth, merely because it is a museum with a view (and a restaurant-bearing terrace nonetheless)?

What are we to do? Not much, really, other than "catching a glimpse", taking the long way up, ramp after ramp, corridor through corridor, monstrous pillar next to monstrous pillar, in search for the still absent Elgin marbles, enjoying the view to the holy rock, while waiting for the tourists to come. Here we are, then, left with masses of cement, chunks of metal, and a Caryatid on the mezzanine.

31 Οκτ 2008

Greek archaeology and the post-colonial blues

Since its discovery by the West, Greek art has become a modern commodity, to be enjoyed as image and spectacle, as the charming representation of an imaginary ancestry; this has been the universal fate of art works in late modernity. In Greece, it was conscripted into the efforts to forge the nation’s primeval ties with its psyche, lost in the depths of Aegean prehistory, a quite spectacular notion, as the 2004 Olympic ceremony demonstrated. Greek nationalism sought its cultural expression in classical and pre-classical antiquity, and Greek archaeologists in the nineteenth and twentieth centuries managed to promote the modernity of Greece based on the antiquity of Hellas – both cultural topoi, of course, and quite imagined ones at that. As a ‘political community’ imagined by its members, Greece – represented by its intellectuals – strove to embrace modernity through an idiosyncratic connection with the past, expressed by means of the ideological scheme of Hellenicity; thus, Greece’s glorious past was seen as the guarantor of its splendid future.

Hellenicity, and its subsidiary notions of national continuity, singularity, superiority, are anguished expressions of a deeply rooted Occidentalism, an instinctive – albeit strategically planned and consistent – reaction to the gaze of the West, often disapproving or even scornful. This is a Lacanian gaze, pretty much imagined by the subject in the field of the Other. National identity had to be formed and propagated against a backdrop of (occidental) modernity and the crucial dilemma between modernization (which everybody craved, if surreptitiously) and westernization (feared to be the kiss of death to any non-Western society). The intellectuals of the 'generation of the thirties' balanced the blessings and the horrors of both predicaments, hence the long afterlife enjoyed by their ideas. Similar developments have been observed elsewhere, such as in the early twentieth-century Bengal school of art, whose efforts to define an aesthetic form, at the same time modern and national, for the art of India would appeal to any Greek intellectual from the thirties up to the present day. It is this continuous oscillation between desire for and resistance to the West, that shapes Greek sensibilities towards antiquity and its artefacts, be they Early Cycladic figurines or the Elgin Marbles. Greeks invite the gaze of the West, seeking its approval and challenging its scorn. The discourse of Hellenicity provides a flexible apparatus, through which to bypass modern failings, since antiquity affords ample credentials. The Olympic ceremony described elsewhere in this blog exemplifies this strategy – Greece seeks the approval of the West, which it deserves … simply for being Greece.

Hellenicity and its instrumental sentiment of archaeolatry – shared by intellectuals and laymen alike, conservative, liberal, even communist – find expression in massive, exhilarating displays of patriotism, at once reassuring and therapeutic, Greece’s own experience of an ‘erotics of nationhood’, to remember Appadurai. Big sports events are nowadays commonly associated with such displays where Greek nationality – portrayed through the imagery of the nation’s singular antiquity – is evoked to boost team spirit, or as a consolation against the adversities of fate.

Though generally performed in a climate of innocent fun, these mass rituals can sometimes show a truly menacing face: the Greek football team’s triumph in the 2004 European Cup in Lisbon (a national triumph indeed) was celebrated in the streets of Athens with many chants, all suitably sexist or racist, including one along the lines of ‘Hey, Albanian! a Greek you’ll never be!’, followed by violent attacks against Albanian immigrant bystanders, even though their country was not taking part in the tournament in the first place.

Cultural distinction has become the primary function of Hellenicity in national discourse, especially when it comes to ‘national issues’ such as Greece’s disputes with its neighbours. Ancient imagery is time and again employed to suggest ownership of the past and cultural superiority, as in the case of public protests (many of which took place abroad, in countries with a sizeable community of Greek immigrants) regarding the so-called ‘Macedonian issue’.

Studying antiquity, therefore, entails the study of contemporary culture, throug which antiquity is imagined before it even begins to be studied. The Greek example alone would suffice to uphold this statement: as imagined by intellectuals (including archaeologists) from as early as the late nineteenth century, the Greek heritage functioned as the mystic’s crucible where the nation’s ‘antiquity’ met its primeval, therefore remarkable, ‘modernity’. Archaeologists in particular sought to exemplify the nation’s structured past, based on the twin, metaphysical notions of ‘nation-time’ and ‘nation-space’. This produces the kind of frustrated, emancipator archaeology still in evidence in Greece, and other ‘young’ nation-states.

As an imagined community, Greece – contrary to the popular orientalist stereotype which wants to view non-occidental societies as monolithic, singular units reeking of nationalist spite and anti-modern resilience – is split by unfathomable rifts between exponents of traditionalism and progress, invariably expressed through the discourse of Hellenicity within or beyond the West. Most, if not all, national projects in the field of archaeological research or cultural management subscribe to this goal, often including in their official rhetoric statements to that effect.We have by now learnt to accept that the archaeologies we produce are generated in the mill of controversy, rebellion, and shared fantasy and that, far from dealing with ‘reality’, they are meant to help their audience deal with their own experiences of culture, time, and mortality. However irrational or regressive, such projects are meant to articulate the logos of the nation and at the same time chart its topography.

They can also be used to turn cultural stereotypes on their heads: Greece, perpetually seen as ‘Orient’ by its friends and foes alike, behaves as part of the Occident (as one of the West’s founding … mothers, so to speak) both to its western and eastern neighbours. Greek nationalists, as early as the late nineteenth century, produced rhetoric of remarkably orientalist overtones, urging the nation to assume its task of ‘civilizing the Orient’.

Whereas the Greeks themselves believe their state to be the direct outcome of their nation’s glorious revolt against its bloodthirsty oppressor, an external view of these events would suggest that modern Greece is a product of the West, sprouting from a happy coincidence of political interests and intellectual preferences. Romantic Philhellenism enabled captive Greeks to make their case appealing to European ears. However, once the great cause was achieved, it became apparent that Greece and its protectors had been working towards different ends. What for Greek intellectuals and their ever growing audience (at home rather than abroad) was the cradle of European civilization, was for their Western patrons the incarnation of a long-lost fantasy, hotly pursued, though orientalist nonetheless. Following the dissolution of the Ottoman Empire, Greece emerged as an Orientalist’s Neverland, where truth was ‘stranger than fiction’, and where boys never grew old and poets gained immortality, especially if they met an early death in the marshlands of Missolonghi. (As a matter of fact, had Byron survived his sad predicament, the history of Philhellenism might have taken a quite different turn.) Once the Greek state came to life, it was found to embody all the failings customarily (and ‘naturally’) associated with the Orient: it was disorganized, inefficient, and irrational.

Archaeology finds itself unwittingly entangled in this mesh of contradictory agendas, where what is at stake may be the very way we view the world and our role in it. Detached and objective, archaeology is time and again called in to perform the crucial role of producing the ‘facts’ we need in order to represent the past as an artefact available to our scrutiny.

Greek archaeology in the twentieth century shared the fortunes, blessings, and tribulations of modernity itself; and the rift created between the ‘metaphysical’ and the ‘positivist’ archaeological discourses, is yet another battle in the post-colonial wars.

Archaeology in early twenty-first century Greece carries the burden of its twentieth-century predicament. I chose to describe the Olympic ceremony earlier as a ritual that, to my mind, attempted to close a traumatic, and short, Greek twentieth century with a flare of introspective resilience. I believe that the ceremony serves as a poignant reminder that collective Greek imaginings remain faithful admirers and enthusiastic consumers of both the metaphysical veneration of the Greek landscape which dates back to the very beginning of the twentieth century, and the even earlier systematization of Greek history as a single, continuous and unmediated phenomenon. Both concepts were fertilized, of course, by the vision and the fervour of the intellectuals who made up the generation of the thirties, though inevitably influenced by the violent political and ideological clashes of the inter-war years. Such ceremonies are by no means uncommon in everyday Greece, especially when global coverage is secured, as the Athens hosting of the Eurovision song contest revealed:

The Hellenicity discourse as a national project relies on archaeology as purveyor of the necessary imagery and the supporting scientific documentation. Its poignantly aestheticized rhetoric equates Greek culture with its aesthetics, activated in two separate fields: Greek art (Prehistoric, Classical, Byzantine, post-Byzantine) and the Greek landscape (natural or man-made). Archaeology is in charge of the production of both as cultural topoi, sites of national convergence and (more often than not) conflict.

To achieve this, it has had on the one hand to adopt an essentialist view of ‘Hellenic’ art in its various embodiments and on the other to promote a hellenocentric approach to other historical and art historical phenomena. As Greek archaeologists – from their respective standpoints as university teachers or government officials – were claiming an ever increasingly central role in the ideological and actual management of Greece’s cultural capital, research ethics and practices in Greek archaeology were progressively (and unavoidably?) aligned with a markedly antiquarian approach to the past, ignoring newer developments in archaeological science and related disciplines. Thus archaeology in Greece – Prehistoric, Classical, and Byzantine – became predominantly Greek (or Helladic, to be exact). Choosing to steer an introvert, and decidedly conservative course, Greek archaeology would seem in the post-war years to have confined itself to the role of keeper of national ideologies, as they were devised on its behalf by the Greek state and communicated, promoted and propagated through a deeply conservative educational system.

Both the ‘Great Idea’ and the discourse on Hellenicity as moves for national self-determination affected the ideology and the praxis of Greek archaeology. Instigated by intellectuals, though supported, recycled and eventually redefined by the public at large, these moves express the need to articulate the image of the land and its people with respect to Western and global culture, as a way of claiming patrimonial intellectual and political rights.

Since the mid-twentieth century Greeks seem to have defined their relationship with their past somewhere between two opposing extremes: a liberal re-evaluation of heritage on the one hand, drawing its genealogy from Romanticism and its metaphysical aspects, and narrow-minded archaeolatry on the other, introvert and sterile, and something to fall back on every time the nation is in trouble – whether real or imaginary. Antiquity is invariably used as the scenery of Greece’s present achievements, as well as its frustrations. Politically, archaeology is deployed as an explicit legitimizing force or even a disciplinary measure.

In the early nineties, reacting to Greece’s insistence that its hereditary rights be the sole basis for resolving the ‘Macedonian issue’ (and at a time when the state was threatening with prison sentences all Greeks voicing opinions contrary to the official national line, and invoking school history books and the finds from Vergina against the country’s northern neighbours), The Spectator published a drawing of the Parthenon turned into a concentration camp.

As if to confirm the disciplinary powers of archaeology – let us not forget that Foucault’s heterotopias of deviation include ‘rest homes and psychiatric hospitals, and of course prisons’ – the Greek state has decided to illustrate the passports of its citizens with images of the Parthenon, the ossuary from Vergina, Mistra and Mt. Athos, presumably as a means to propagate an identity to the exclusion of all others:


Interestingly, the recipients of this message are none other than the Greeks themselves, since passports, with the exception of a fleeting surrender at border crossings, remain in the keeping of their owners. Like any tradition, invented or otherwise, such visual reminders of cultural and political belonging ‘attempt to establish continuity with a suitable historic past’...


This is part of my introduction to A Singular Antiquity, a volume I co-edited with Dimitris Damaskos earlier this year. Here's a review by Dimitris Papanikolaou and one by Kostis Kourelis (also here for my text).


24 Οκτ 2008

Ποιος ήρθε;

"Νόστος" δεν είναι η επιστροφή, αλλά ο γυρισμός.

Υποκείμενο ενός "Νόστου" είναι ο ξενιτεμένος, ο εξόριστος, ο ταξιδιώτης που πονά με τη σκέψη του γυρισμού, επί τέλους, στο σπίτι του. Είναι ο αρχετυπικός Οδυσσέας, ο βιβλικός Άσωτος, ο Σεβάχ της Χαλιμάς ή τα Rain Dogs του Tom Waits, ναι, αλλά ... και ο Ευφρόνιος;

Η έκθεση Νόστοι στο υπό κατασκευήν Νέο Μουσείο Ακροπόλεως υποκειμενοποιεί τον πόθο του γυρισμού, με τις ομηρικές του παραπομπές (συχνά, άλλωστε, τελευταία συγχέεται ο νόστος με τη νοσταλγία, κυρίως σε τίτλους εκθέσεων, βιβλίων κοκ) στο "πρόσωπο" εκατό περίπου αρχαιολογικών εκθεμάτων προερχόμενων από Αμερικανικές ιδιωτικές συλλογές και μουσεία για τα οποία ξέρουμε ή υποθέτουμε ότι αποτελούν προϊόν αρχαιοκαπηλείας.

Τα αγγεία, γλυπτά, σπαράγματα τοιχογραφιών κλπ των Νόστων, έρχονται να συναντήσουν τις πέντε Καρυάτιδες του Ερεχθείου που θρηνούν - κατά τον αττικό μύθο - τον μισεμό της έκτης αδελφής τους. Στις άδειες, ακόμη, αίθουσες του Νέου Μουσείου Ακροπόλεως δρουν υπαινικτικά για τον πόθο της ολοκλήρωσης, για το αντάμωμα, "με χρόνους με καιρούς", με τα ξενιτεμένα παρθενώνεια. Η αναγνώριση προσωπικών χαρακτηριστικών, και της δυνατότητας για δράση και πρωτοβουλία - αυτό που οι ανθρωπολόγοι ονομάζουν agency - σε αντικείμενα άψυχα, μας δίνει τη δυνατότητα να εκφραστούμε μέσα από "σώματα" - corpora - ετερόκλητων πραγμάτων (μας δίδαξε ο Alfred Gell).

Οι επαναπατρισμένες αρχαιότητες, όπως έχει επικρατήσει να ονομάζονται τα αρχαία αντικείμενα που οι χώρες προέλευσής τους διεκδικούν από τις χώρες "υποδοχής", παρουσιάζονται σε μία περιοδική έκθεση της ιταλικής κυβέρνησης, ως "λάφυρο" της επιτυχημένης προσπάθειας των ιταλών να εντοπίσουν έργα αρχαίας τέχνης που έφυγαν από τα σύνορα της χώρας τους ως προϊόντα αρχαιοκαπηλείας.

Όμως, ο ίδιος ο όρος "επαναπατρισμός", θέτει συγκεκριμένα προβλήματα: αν οι αρχαιολόγοι θρηνούμε - και δικαίως - το χαμένο πολιτισμικό συμφραζόμενο (το context) αυτών των αντικειμένων, πόσο μπορεί να μας παρηγορήσει η επιστροφή τους στη χώρα από την οποία προέρχονται, αλλά όχι και στον αρχαιολογικό χώρο από τον οποίο αποσπάστηκαν παράνομα - δεδομένου ότι τα στοιχεία αυτά έχουν χαθεί; Είναι σαφές ότι πρέπει οι αρχαιολογικοί χώροι να φυλάσσονται και να αστυνομεύονται - η αρχαιοκαπηλεία, πέρα από καταστροφή αρχαιοτήτων, είναι και μία δραστηριότητα που ενεργοποιεί παράνομα διεθνή κυκλώματα διακίνησης τέχνης και χρήματος, και ως εκ τούτου ευνοεί την εκμετάλλευση ανθρώπων και ολόκληρων των τοπικών κοινωνιών "προέλευσης" αρχαίων.

Γιατί όμως επιμένουμε να δίνουμε περισσότερη προβολή στο "γυρισμό" κλεμμένων αρχαιοτήτων; μήπως διότι παρόμοια θριαμβολογία ικανοποιεί τα εθνικιστικά αντανακλαστικά μιας περιφερειακής κοινωνίας (όπως η Ιταλία των Νόστων ή η Ελλάδα άλλων περιπτώσεων) η οποία έτσι θεωρεί ότι επικρατεί έναντι των παντοδύναμων "δυτικών", συνήθως αμερικανών ή ιαπώνων συλλεκτών, κατά τεκμήριο ζάπλουτων;

Η ρητορική του "επαναπατρισμού" θέτει και ένα ιδιόμορφο ιστορικό πρόβλημα: το τέλος της ίδιας της ιστορίας. Ό,τι συνέβη μέχρι, πάνω-κάτω, και τον Μεσαίωνα - εμπόριο, ανταλλαγές, μεταφορές, αρπαγές, λεηλασίες - κατοχυρώνεται ως ιστορία: δεν αλλάζει. Ό,τι συνέβη μετά, αστυνομεύεται και ελέγχεται για την πολιτική του ορθότητα. Έτσι, οι Ρωμαίοι ψέγονται ως "άρπαγες", κανείς όμως δεν ζητά πίσω από τους Ιταλούς τους Πολεμιστές του Ριάτσε, που κατά πάσα πιθανότητα έφυγαν από κάποιο ελληνικό ιερό ως λάφυρο ενός ρωμαίου στρατηγού. Αντίθετα, οι πάσης φύσεως περιηγητές, αρχαιοδίφες, συλλέκτες ή μεταπράτες που λυμαίντονταν τις κλασικές χώρες επί αιώνες κρίνονται με κριτήρια του δεύτερου μισού του 20ού αιώνα και βαφτίζονται - ετεροχρονισμένα - αρχαιοκάπηλοι. Παράλληλα, το ελληνικό (και κάθε άλλο) κράτος αποκτά αναδρομική ισχύ, που επεκτείνεται σε εποχές πριν από την ίδρυσή του.

Τέτοια ερωτήματα θα περίμενε κανείς να θέτει - και ενδεχομένως να προσπαθεί να επιλύσει - η έκθεση των Νόστων. Αντιθέτως, μετά από ένα λακωνικό (και θριαμβολογικό) εισαγωγικό σημείωμα, τα "επαναπατρισθέντα" έργα εκτίθενται με αυστηρή αρχαιολογική τάξη, κατά την αγαπημένη "απόλυτη αρχαιολογική σειρά" των παλιών αρχαιολόγων, δίχως ένα "μετα-ιστορικό" σχόλιο - ως απλά έργα αρχαίας τέχνης, και μόνον. Έργα - σημειωτέον - του αττικού Κεραμεικού στην πλειονότητά τους, που ακολούθησαν τον ρουν του διεθνούς εμπορίου της εποχής εκείνης, για να βρεθούν (και να ταφούν) στην Ιταλία, μετά στην Αμερική, τώρα πάλι πίσω στην Ιταλία, την "πατρίδα" αλλά όχι και "γενέτειρα", με μια στάση στην Αθήνα, απ' όπου ξεκίνησαν. Σίγουρα, αυτό το γεγονός θα άξιζε κάποιο σχολιασμό...

Αντίθετα, τα αντικείμενα παρουσιάζονται ως "star exhibits", διακαιώνοντας, παρά τις προθέσεις των διοργανωτών, την καταστροφική πρακτική των συλλεκτών - της απόσπασης, δηλαδή, από το πολιτισμικό συμφραζόμενο. Η κεντρική θέση παραχωρείται, φυσικά, στον κρατήρα του Ευφρονίου, το διάσημο αττικό αγγείο που επιστρέφει τώρα στην Ιταλία, τον τόπο ταφής του.

"Αστεράτες αρχαιότητες" χαρακτηρίζει τα εκθέματα και η γραστρονόμος και σεφ Βίβιαν Ευθυμιοπούλου στη Lifo της 16ης Οκτ. 2008 (τ. 130, σελ. 58-9), η οποία υπερθεματίζει: "[η έκθεση] είναι μοναδική ευκαιρία να δούμε από κοντά αντικείμενα που έχουν γίνει πασίγνωστα μέσα από τα βιβλία και τον Τύπο. Μην τη χάσετε!"

Κι έτσι, η πολύτιμη λεία φαίνεται απλώς ν' αλλάζει χέρια.

17 Οκτ 2008

Rebuilding Hellas

Archaeology in Greece provides the theatre and the props for a strategically placed production of the modern state as a continuation of Hellas. The ideological and aesthetic components of this re-enactment will be one of my main interests in these (pre)texts. At any rate, archaeologists in Greece have become the arch censors of national aesthetics, stipulating what was to be allowed in modern Greek culture, based on an improvised hierarchical system of values prioritizing the (perceived) integrity of classical aesthetics.


Canonized in the mind of archaeologists and the Greek people at large, antiquities have become, even in recent years, the recipients of quasi-religious veneration that might embarrass an otherwise typically Western, secular state (even one, like Greece, marked by some decidedly un-Western, and rather disconcerting, peculiarities):

Greek authorities have recently introduced a ban on posing for pictures in front of ancient monuments in museums and archaeological sites ‘as a show of veneration’ to them, usually enforced by enraged stewards against flabbergasted (and otherwise most welcome) tourists seeking, in universal tourist etiquette nowadays (obnoxious as it may be), to immortalize themselves in front of a classical statue or a ruin. On many an occasion from the early years of the Greek state, archaeologists working for the Ministry of Culture, the University, or both, were allowed to intervene in situations involving contemporary culture – from events taking place in or near archaeological sites to displays of modern or non-Greek art – and have the last say in the matter. Using the powers of persuasion they draw from a portentous past which they profess to represent, as well as the disciplinary powers invested in them by the state, Greek archaeologists continue to produce and recycle aesthetic value for the sake of the nation.

Theirs was the ‘archaeologically correct’ imagery paraded in the opening ceremony of the 2004 Olympics. Theirs is the heterotopic landscape, duly ‘cleansed’ and appropriately ‘archaeological’, crafted across Greece through doctrine, intervention and censorship.

A recent clash, rendering the Acropolis once again a site of conflict, should suffice to show the way Greek archaeology – state or public – views its own and the country’s relationship to the classical past. The decision taken by the Central Archaeological Council to approve the de-classification of two previously listed buildings in the vicinity of the new Acropolis Museum in central Athens has stirred a wave of public controversy.

The two buildings, one a rare example of the way modern Greek architecture adopted the achievements of art-deco architecture and the other a Neoclassical building with strong overtones of the Gothic Revival, are part of an urban street preserving valuable examples of private houses of the early twentieth century. The decision to tear down the two buildings rested on the ‘needs’ of the new museum for an uninterrupted view of the Acropolis, in order to establish a ‘visual conversation’ with the monument. A massive building of (questionable by some) international architectural merit, the new museum, designed by Bernard Tschumi, is intended to enhance Greece’s international standing as a host of modern architecture as well as its prospects of seeing the eventual return of the Elgin marbles – a national project indeed.

The inherent visualism of Greek archaeology, deeply embedded in its empiricist tradition, a tendency that has been elevated to the status of the discipline’s primary tool of conviction, cultivates a cultural bias towards the visual (‘what you see is what you get’), an attitude that is fundamentally ideological. In the case of the Acropolis museum, the modern has to be given uninterrupted visual access to the ancient, a co-existence that has to be self-evident and eternally present. No intermediaries can be allowed, no interruptions, especially if they are not part of the linear succession from antiquity to the present; most especially if they are unwelcome reminders of foreign interventions unworthy of our merit, as in the case of the Frankish Tower on the Acropolis or the art-deco house classified as a listed building in the seventies by the same authorities which now want to demolish it. Archaeology is thus used to deploy an improvised visual rhetoric, satisfying its public’s (as well as its own) idolatrous tendencies in order to shift the discourse regarding the past towards the pictorial and the aesthetic. Besides being a filial duty towards an imposing past, this heterotopic approach to the development of urban landscapes in modern Greece has been understood by Greeks as a way of meeting outsiders’ expectations of them and a way of achieving international acceptance and financial benefits.

In one of the countless texts urging the state to get rid of the two ‘unimportant’ listed buildings for the sake of the ‘common good’ written by various ‘public intellectuals’ catering primarily for the press, we read that ‘no [foreign] visitor will come to Athens in order to see an art-deco facade, though many will come for the Acropolis Museum, provided we promote it appropriately’.

Several decades on, the best part of a century, Greek archaeology – in the wider sense of the term – struggles to illustrate the nation’s importance through visual reminders of its antiquity, while at the same time striving to satisfy the needs of its visitors in return for their material or moral support. True enough, the fate of the two houses was apparently sealed when it was realized that, although the Parthenon would be clearly visible from the new museum’s galleries (one of which is to remain empty until such time as the Elgin marbles are returned to Greece), the backs of the two buildings obstruct the view to the ‘mother rock’ from the landing which is to become the museum’s cafeteria. Though never explicitly stated in official documentation, this is generally understood both in Greece and abroad as the central issue of the debate (cf. The Observer, 29 July 2007). See, for example, the heated discussion at a web-based chat group of Greek photographers: The majority of participating ‘Neo-Hellenes’ claim that the two condemned buildings are not ‘ancient enough’ or even ‘artistic’, ‘beautiful’ or ‘suitably Hellenic’ to stand in the way of the Parthenon, thus subconsciously (though quite explicitly) pushing for a ‘cleansed’, historically sterilized and all-Greek Athenian landscape.

We certainly need to reconsider the central premise of this enterprise of remodelling Hellas, a ‘passion play’ as it has been called, where what is at stake is Greece’s capacity for self-determination and – more importantly – just who, within the state itself, has the right to set the rules of this process. Needless to say, although this endeavour, one that has led to violent and as yet unresolved conflict in Greek society, affects Greece’s outlook on the future, it is primarily concerned with its definitive reading of the past.



14 Οκτ 2008

Athens street art

Having mentioned graffiti art in a previous post, I was interested to read about it in a piece on Punk Archaeology.

I have been interested in Athens street art for some time now, and I have walked around a bit, taking pics and sometimes meeting the artists. Quite frankly, I would like to see more of the stuff I am illustrating here and less of the ostentatious metropolitan art Athenian mayors are notoriously fond of (more on this soon).

Here's a small collection of Athenian street art from my Flickr account - there's more to look at, there's more to discover -

First, two works by Joad:




Joad again:


The reclusive Pete, Athens' dark prince (see P.13's great photo here, and a Flickr shrine made by one of his fans):




And, finally, Dreyk at work sometime in October 2007: